Bags packed and all sorted out.
Breakfast buffet ready. Well-rested in all aspects. Yes, we are recharged. And I will be working straight from the flight due to this change. And I'm not complaining. P.S. We directly went to Landmark in Rigga for a late lunch and parted ways. A few useful apps I used in Armenia: 1. Rate.am - for currency exchanges monitoring 2. Yandex app - for transportation services. Most drivers are nice and tries to speak English. 3. maps.google.com - for navigation HAJOGHUTYUN!!!
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We swore we wanted to walk around as early as we can but... just blame it on the alcohol. We just couldn't let another day pass by without enjoying their bottle of wine in a cold terrace on a 14th floor balcony over the city lights. We officially stretched past 10 in the morning believing that the breakfast buffet will be closed late but it was actually over. Good thing the reception called the kitchen to have it back again and to our surprise, they laid everything on the table. All jams and preserves and breads with meat on the charcuterie board. Compote and other juices on the other side of the table and tea and coffee on the other. A great Armenian breakfast to start the day I must say. We waited for Norik to hand us the PCR result (Negative obviously) before we walked around as we packed our bags for the check out and kept it to the reception area. We had our eye on Vernissage but found ourselves enjoying the streets and benches of Republic Square and strolled along Tigras Mets until we reached St. Gregory the Illuminator Church. The widened stairs towards the church gives a warm embrace to the people passing by. The church feels inviting yet appears to be humble as we approach its simple infrastructure. No fancy decorations just calmness and serenity inside this sacred place. Photographs are not allowed inside and I can tell there is no need to. We continued our journey taking the metro nearby (Zoravar Andranik) for only 100 dram per ride. That's from point to point! And it makes a difference with us being here in Dubai which means, no zones! We decided on taking the end of the metro line (Baregamutyun) not knowing what lies in there, so we did. Though it looks familiar, the place where we had our PCR tested, we strolled and we saw another SAS branch but shawarma is still "lifer" and pork is "lifest" so I grabbed one and as for Anzel, the chicken one. If you'll find shawarma shops in cafeterias in Dubai, in Yerevan, they can be sold in bakeshops. And the bread is also superb at a friendly cost. We went back to metro and alighted the Republic Square station and walked in circles and finally found Vernissage. Vernissage is indeed a sight for both travelers and tourists. From furnitures to kitchenwares, jewelries to clothing lines, friendly sellers talking to buyers with smiles. It is indeed a good community. We bought several items, well, a couple of handful and off we went to the hotel to get our bags for hotel transfers. P.S. You might be wondering why we need to transfer hotels. Well, we originally planned for a 3 day trip and eventually extended it into 4. Then the airline called that the flight was cancelled and had to move a day after. So yeah, it's already an incidental expense and a 3,000AMD means 2 shawarmas and 2 cups of coffee. After a whirlwind taxi ride, we finally arrived at Elysium Boutique Hotel or Unique Hotel which is just several blocks away from our previous hotel but due to name changes, the driver got confused, so we did too. Thanks to the nice lady in Villa 29 Hotel who helped us find the correct address. We were told that due to rebranding, the management will also have changes too. However, the location is indeed superb and the room is also equipped with good amenities without the balcony, like the Opera Theatre is just a few hundred meters away.
We rested for an hour or two as we unpack the necessities and off we went out at eight in the evening. The last night winter stroll in the city is relaxing. Though our luck with Coffee 23.5 is sly, shots from Coffee House is a good exchange with another Pork Shawarma on hand while seeing teens enjoying each other's companies as the music bops. We then settled our late-night dinner at Sherep Restaurant, a restaurant relatively close to Republic Square beside Marriot Hotel. I didn't expect much since I've listed spots that has good reviews and this being one of them. We ordered a good course of meal that starts with a salad then beef meats and Kachapuri. We were curious of the "Sherep" dessert so we ordered it but we were in awe that a presentation will happen. The chef went to our table pouring liquors and flames and voila! A chocolate bomb sprinkled with brandy and cognac on a fiery plate grazed our eyes. The balance of alcohol and sweetness reminds me that it is our last night in this awesome country. So we ended strolling at Republic Square at 1 in the morning on a chilly negative 1 degree Celsius twilight under the soft yellow lights of the city. And of course I had to take a cup of coffee in a local coffee shop before heading back home. Rose's flight is at 1100H so we had to leave before 0900H at least. I then contacted our host, Marina that we will be away before the check out and will update her later. Marina is an awesome host as well, she speaks English fluently and responsive to messages. Naturally, taxis are all over the place but not everybody speaks English well and I haven't equipped myself with their language, so the Yandex app is useful for our long rides. You can actually pay cash and mobile number isn't required too. Just Wi-Fi. What a relief indeed. Kachik, the driver was also amusing as he drove pointing the cognac factories in the city. 30 minutes later, we are in the airport already. We then bid farewell to Rose as she keeps her heart with us :lol: Since I have an idea of airport coach rides, Anzel was with me in exploring the terminal and saw a rustic view of the old airport. Armenians really take pride of their history or so I thought. Few walks along the arrival doors is a sign in orange and white that reads "BUS" to what we presume the bus to the city for 300AMD per head. What a steal! DO IT YOURSELF CITY TOUR. The bus has a few designated stops but to my surprise, it stops almost every few kilometers and gets passengers. Nothing unusual for a person who grew up with "jeepneys and tricycles". As we draw nearer to the city we decided to alight the bus a few stops more and accidentally saw the Blue Mosque. BLUE MOSQUE An 18th-century Shia mosque in Yerevan, Armenia. It was commissioned by Huseyn Ali Khan, the khan of the Iranian Erivan Khanate. It is one of the oldest extant structures in central Yerevan and the most significant structure from the city's Iranian period. We strolled the streets and found our way to the apartment to check out. Marina the host sent Monica to clean the house but also permitted us to keep our bags if we wanted to roam around the city. But since our next hotel, the 14th Floor Hotel arranged by Norik is just a couple of stones away from the apartment, we opted to transfer earlier. With bags on our shoulders and luggage on our hands, we walked of at least 30 meters and checked in the hotel. A quaint reception greeted us in a locked community where the lift is only directed to the 14th and 15th floor. True to its name, rooms are in the 14th floor with the 15th floor as the restaurant. The room is cozy with good amenities and a perfect balcony overlooking the city. Roofs of unknown houses glistening over the rays of the sun. The whole city is a living dream. But we have to be awakened for the fact that there are still places to explore. And it is not just SAS, no offence to it, I am basically amused by this large chain of supermarket. Their wide range of grocery items to breads and money changing kiosks is a great help to the community and even for us tourists. Probably cheaper than Carrefour (I'm not paid to do this). Norik arranged for our PCR as a requirement for traveling back since we will leave in 2 days. He sent Mher to pick us up and since we wanted to explore, asked if we can be dropped either in Genocide Museum or Mother of Armenia. He immediately recommended Mother of Armenia, in which I couldn't comprehend until we got there. MOTHER OF ARMENIA. LOST CARNIVAL. CASCADE COMPLEX. CITY CENTER.
Mher pointed to an area of a tourist "go-to" since it gives a panoramic view of Yerevan but dropped us at the Mother of Armenia statue to kick it off. Unknowingly, there is an abandoned amusement park that gives off aesthetic views nearby. We strolled a little and saw a few kiosks open as people still enjoy this then-famed carnival. We went back to the statue and though the museum is about to close, they still accommodate us and got a simple tour of the military history of the country. Walking in a winter weather at the top of a hill with the sun rise finally starts setting brings calmness to the city. It was not a gloomy afternoon at all. Less than a kilometer away stands a 65-metre obelisk that commemorates the 50th anniversary of Soviet rule in Armenia. Then underneath it is the portal to the Cascade complex. Another unexpected spot we have yet to tick off. A magnificent view of the city indeed. The cream-colored steps is a basin to every people in all ages, races and religion. An escape to the busy car-filled streets and city noises. A relief to wounded souls and sorrowful woes. We walked until we see familiar streets after a shawarma-filled tummy from Tumanyan Shawarma and found our way home and went to Louis Charden Cafe after a few moments of rest. An aesthetic cafe' but to be honest, overly priced in an average menu. We then walked around the major streets and coffee shops are apparently closing much earlier than Dubai's (what should I expect? 10PM is already late there). The night stroll at the wee hours reminds me of Anne Rice: 'You are the night and the night alone understands you and enfolds you in its arms' One with the shadows. Without nightmare. An inexplicable peace.” The exact place I was imagining while reading Anne Rice's novels. I couldn't believe I'm strolling the streets of New Orleans in my winter clothes. Yes, before Twilight came Interview with the Vampire and Queen of the Damned. I think I can stay here for a month or two more. But... reality first. We capped the night with a traditional Armenian bottle of wine in our balcony under a 1 degree weather at 3AM. Even most hotels and hostels are offering breakfast, I still search for breakfast spots in the city but couldn't find one that opens before 0800H. So we started the day with a short walk to CRUMBS for breakfast as Rose is scheduled for a PCR test since her flight back to UAE is the next morning. Norik sent a different driver, David to pick us up for this tour. Another pure soul and a man who smiles in spite of the language barriers. To be honest, this is the tour we needed. No WI-FI, No mobile data. Just the car, company and the road (with food and water). GARNI TEMPLE. A unique survivor of temples devoted to Greek-Roman gods before Armenia became the first Christian nation in the world in 301. It is indeed one sight to look for if you're in the country. Remnants of the temple stones placed in beside the aisle towards the temple which you will see the snow covered mountain behind. Surreal, it has exceeded to what I have imagined. I was walking to the pathway of a big binocular and found myself at the edge of the safety rails. A cliff and across that, a frozen river and stone walls resembling the symphony of stones but covered in snow. GEGHARD MONASTERY. A renowned ecclesiastical and cultural centre of medieval Armenia, where a school, scriptorium, library and many rock-cut dwelling cells for clergymen could be found in addition to the religious constructions. It is rather impressive of how it is formed with nature and is still operating until now. However, renovation is still ongoing, the magnificence of the complex still awes me. The back door is like entering Narnia in the winter season. How the snow embraces the field with a few areas revealed, it is one of God's gift to man, and it needs to be appreciated. As expected, sellers of candles, food or trinkets are present outside but there is one thing that made us curious that we bought it. The Armenian cake, it is only 1,000AMD a piece and it weighs over a kilogram. It lasts for a week too! LAKE SEVAN. Being the largest body of water in the whole Caucasus, I am expecting to be amazed but didn't expect to walk our way up to the church. And since we are constraint with time since we are afraid that the Ski Resort will close, we just checked the view from up and went back. I don't know if it is one of the scams that kids will sell candles and tell tourists to buy it otherwise they couldn't go inside. Nonetheless, we didn't mind them and when we came back to their kiosk, we saw policemen and some group of people. Weird isn't it. FOODCOURT. It reminds me of the Belgian Pubs in London. Wooden interiors with meat dishes and friendly strangers around. Their pork shawarma has simple yet fresh taste in pork chunks. Appreciate the people who tried their best in English. TSAGHKADZOR. I kept forgetting how to pronounce it but I will never forget how high the cable car ride is. And since it is a two-person seat and we are a group of three, I decided to go alone. As I was enjoying the views with a phone in hand, my phone automatically shut down due to the cold. With fingers frozen since my gloves was soaked in snow, can I just say that the last 2 minutes of the ride was one of the most uncomfortable? We alighted at the top and agreed to switch seats and this time, I was with Rose. The inclination was more likely a 90-degree angle but still unbothered with the white-covered landscape and soothing music. Isn't it romantic? EPICURE. One of the most loved restaurant in Yerevan. Cozy with great food but can cost above average in Armenian lifestyle.
P.S. SAS supermarket is such a saviour. It has a money exchange kiosk, grocery and nice staff. Their bread is also tasty. Being a budget traveler might not be everybody's cup of tea. As a traveler who has been doing it for years, I can say that it is easier doing it alone than with a group. But the coin always has two sides. This travel is not the usual "pennywiselakwatsera-thing" since I'm with my "kids". Yeah, I'm that travel mom. And this is their first international travel beyond work. To make it easier, I summarized our expenses into USD if not AMD (Armenian Dram). USD 1 = 477AMD Total: $225 each February 14: $35 each February 15: $40 each February 16: $50 each February 17: $70 each February 18: $30 each FEB 14 12PM ZVARTNOTS AIRPORT (300USD EXCHANGE TO AMD) 100USD EACH AND MET WITH SEVAK THE DRIVER 1PM ETCHMIADZIN (CANDLES: 40AMD EACH) + (COFFEEBREAK: 200AMD EACH) 3PM TOUR 2: KHOR VIRAP, NORAVANQ, ARENI WINE FACTORY (WINE: 2,500AMD EACH), BIRDS CAVE WAY 8PM END OF TOUR AND CHECK IN AT APARTMENT 10PM LAVASH RESTAURANT GALENTINE'S DINNER (20,000AMD / 3 = 6,700AMD each) FEB 15 9AM BREAKFAST AT CRUMBS (BREAKFAST: 23,000AMD) 10AM ROSE PCR AT ECOLAB THEN MONEY EXCHANGE AT SAS (200USD) 11AM START OF TOUR 3 WITH DAVID: GARNI TEMPLE (ENTRANCE: 1500AMD EACH), GEGHARD MONASTERY (ARMENIAN CAKE: 1,000AMD + CHURCHKELA: 2,000AMD), LAKE SEVAN (LUNCH AT LAKE SEVAN 15,000AMD: 4 SHAWARMA, SOVLAKI?, POTATOES AND PORK) AND TSAGHKADZOR SKI RESORT (CABLE CAR: 3,000AMD) 730PM BACK TO CITY 9PM NIGHT STROLL AND EPICURE NIGHT CAP (EPICURE: 7,100AMD) SAS SUPERMARKET GROCERY (2,000AMD) FEB 16 9AM TAXI TO AIRPORT AND ROSE'S FLIGHT (2,000AMD) 1030AM SHUTTLE BUS TO CITY CENTER (SHUTTLE BUS 300AMD) DROP BY BLUE MOSQUE 12PM BACK TO APARTMENT THEN CHECK OUT 1PM CHECK IN AT 14TH FLOOR HOTEL 230PM PICK UP FOR PCR TEST AT ECOLAB (10,000AMD) 4PM MOTHER OF ARMENIA DIY CITY TOUR, CASCADE, CITY CENTER 6PM TUMANYAN SHAURMA (4,000AMD) 8PM LOUIS CHARDEN CAFE (8,000AMD) 10PM SAS+CARREFOUR+PHARMACY (6,000AMD) 12AM BACK TO HOTEL 2-5AM WINE NIGHT FEB 17 11AM BREAKFAST AT HOTEL 2PM DIY CITY TOUR (REPUBLIC SQUARE, TIGRA METS, ST. GREGORY THE ILLUMINATOR CHURCH) 3PM METRO TRIP (200AMD) + SHAURMA TIME 4PM VERNISSAGE (SOUVENIR TIME) 530PM SHAURMA TIME (2,500AMD FOR 2) AND 14TH FLOOR CHECK OUT TO ELYSSIUM HOTEL CHECK IN (TAXI 2,000AMD) 7PM CITY STROLL (SHAURMA 2,100AMD FOR 2) + (COFFEHOUSE: COFFEE + TEA 1000AMD) 10PM DINNER AT SHEREP RESTAURANT (13,000AMD) 12AM LAST NIGHT WALKS/SAS (10,000AMD)+ COFFEE + PORK BBQ TAKEOUTS THEN REST (4,000AMD) FEB 18 9AM BREAKFAST AT HOTEL 10AM CHECK OUT AND TO AIRPORT (TAXI TO ZVARTNOTS 1,500AMD) COFFEE AT SEGAFREDDOS (5,000AMD FOR 2) PREPAID EXPENSES: DXB TO EVN RT Flight Ticket: AED1,100 E-Visa: $6 (https://www.mfa.am/en/visa/) UHOMES AT BUZANDA 17 APARTMENT: 38,000AMD FOR 2 NIGHTS 14TH FLOOR HOTEL: 18,000AMD/NIGHT WITH BREAKFAST ELYSSIUM BOUTIQUE HOTEL: 15,000AMD/NIGHT WITH BREAKFAST TOUR 2: 33,000AMD TOUR 3: 25,000AMD Like Georgia, Armenia is a safe place for travel and a budget-friendly destination as well. I never imagined having a 4-course fine dining dinner in a restaurant near the Ministry of Foreign Affairs in the city center for only less than 100 Dirhams. The above budget can be cut-off and you will still have that experience of a lifetime. You read that right. Some people work, some people date and the other just hang out. But for Anzel, Rose and I, we have decided to take Valentine's Day in a whole new level in the middle of this pandemic. Better to spend that special day for couples, away from the ordinary, as three single ladies. And this plan, is God's plan. Let me tell you why. This was just a rebooked flight. I accidentally got COVID before the planned flight last January. Back story: Got swabbed due to travel requirements and to everybody's surprise, turned out to be POSITIVE. So instead of sulking into the darkness, I just took that time to plan more and thank the Lord for a fully asymptomatic quarantine. And since I have been to Georgia, I contacted Ate Ruby, a Filipino Tour Guide in Georgia and asked if she has some deets of Tour Operators in Armenia. She immediately referred Norik and gave me lists of the possible tours. One word is not enough to describe him, simply put, he is very professional in dealing with tourists. The flight will depart at roughly around 0800h so we met at around 0530H at Terminal 2 and checked in. Surprisingly the flight was 95% full and to my luck, I sat beside a family with a kid (well you know how it turned out). The crew was kind enough to let me get the full row at the back and had a decent rest. The on-board meal was also decent (or I just missed plane meals). As the plane flew near the destination, I just couldn't help myself not to see the aerial view and definitely in awe of the snow capped mountain that greeted my eyes. I am impressed how the pilot landed the plane on time and smoothly. Along with our E-Visa and passport, we passed the immigration and carried our bags to meet Sevak, Norik's assigned driver for the day. (I honestly thought I would see Norik but later found out that he is the manager). We exchanged some of our pocket money to Armenian Dram and started the tour in Etchmiadzin. ETCHMIADZIN. The World History states that Etchmiadzin Cathedral is the spiritual center of the Armenian people, and the administrative center of the Armenian Apostolic Church. Often called the “Mother Cathedral of Etchmiadzin” by Armenians, it is among the most ancient examples of Christian architecture anywhere in the world. Many scholars contend it as the oldest cathedral in Armenia, and it is widely believed that it is thus the oldest Christian cathedral in the world. The cathedral was designated as a part of a UNESCO World Heritage zone in 2000 CE. Personally, I know little of its importance before I came here and realized how valuable the architectures are. The entrance itself is a masterpiece and playing along the grounds are irresistible. Something in between the elated feeling of being away from work and the winter breeze made us do that. Though the cathedral is under renovation, it is never a waste to appreciate the beauty of every buildings built. The prayer house is open to many and we had a candle lit and said our prayers before we took off. Khor Virap Monastery. An Armenian monastery located in the Ararat Plain in Armenia, near the closed border with Turkey, about 8 kilometres south of Artashat, Ararat Province, within the territory of ancient Artaxata. The monastery was host to a theological seminary and was the residence of Armenian Catholics. Honestly, I put enough trust on Norik for the tour destinations while I arrange the rest and sometimes, it works well. Etchmiadzin is only an add-on trip since the original tour begins with Khor Virap and usually starts The Armenian plain and hills on a winter afternoon gives enough vibe for a perfect roadtrip. Surprisingly, Mt. Ararat showed for a moment as we drove to Khor Virap and I was literally overwhelmed of its height that I forgot to take snaps of it. I know this will not be the last time to see it :wink: Armenians embracing its culture and history gives off that hospitality feeling. Sevak cautiously told us not to be tricked by people along the road (a bird will be offered to you and they will ask fees later on) so we walked straight up the monastery. The monastery sat on a hill so expect a good cardio. Being a tourist spot, I thought we can only see fellow tourists but saw locals in a sort of mass wedding. Brides in their shimmering white dresses with grooms assisting on their sides, smiles on everybody's faces, it is indeed Valentine's Day. The monastery is indeed a great sight to behold. I was walking around the less populated spaces and still finds picturesque views. The uneven rocks, faded walls and deciduous trees are perfectly placed within the monastery walls. I then walked to a backdoor seeing the Holy Cross overlooking the plain (the sign states "Artashat City Settlement") and beside it is the Armenian Flag. Bird's Cave + Noravanq + Areni Wine Factory We may have spent "more" in the previous spots that we have forgotten the time already. Sevak was kind enough not to pressure us but we know our assignment. Luckily, the rest are just a few kilometres to each other and we were not forced to to for tours of some sort. We might not have gone inside the cave in Areni but the outside walls are amazing. Even the 2-way road is an aesthetic spot. As for the wine factory, they've graced us with great hospitality even though it closes soon. The variety of the wines are very distinct that I am not surprised that they have garnered awards for it. Noravanq Monastery. A 13th-century Armenian monastery, located 122 km from Yerevan in a narrow gorge made by the Amaghu River, near the town of Yeghegnadzor in Armenia. The gorge is known for its tall, sheer, brick-red cliffs, directly across from the monastery. I have seen parts of the road where one side is filled with sand and the other, mountains. But being in a monastery surrounded by mountains and seeing brick-red cliffs on the window to me right and snow mountains on my right, made my dream turned into a reality. Though the monastery has 2 chambers, the first for the candles/prayer room and the upper floor for adoration or masses (probably) but one just couldn't go up easily on the narrow staircase (or so I thought) LAVASH RESTAURANT.
And since it's Rose's birthday month, I snagged a reservation through this restaurant. Fancy? Probably. But everything was worth it. From the virtual conversations and requests to the staff to the interior and even the food. It's a perfect place indeed to cap the day. What we had: Asian Salad: 2600AMD Borscht: 1500AMD Beef tenderloin: 5,000AMD Specialty Compote: 500AMD Mille Feuille: 3,300AMD P.S. Special Thanks for the complimentary wine for Rose's Birthday plus the crew's effort! |
AuthorI go for the name GK since it is short for Gloria Katherine. A nurse by profession but a traveler at heart. I hope you'll find my blog interesting and noteworthy. ArchivesCategories |